Wednesday, February 24, 2010

The road accident

Last week, a friend from Great Lakes Outreach invited me to join a tour of their projects upcountry, which I gladly accepted. For 3 days, we travelled with a group of Americans from South Carolina who had been supporting school construction and orphanages in various provinces of Burundi.

We split our group of 13 in two 4x4 vehicles and hit the road on a bright Monday morning. Burundi is a beautiful country, so we happily rolled up and down the green hills, chatting along and watching life go by in the small and picturesque villages. Sometimes we stopped at a major junction where fruit and vegetable sellers would come and offer us fresh produce through the car windows, and we marvelled, albeit with some concern, at the cyclists who patiently waited for a truck to drive up the hill only to hang on to its back and get a free ride to the nearest pass. I did feel a bit nervous at times, since cars, coaches and taxis tend to drive incredibly fast- there is no speed limit in Burundi, while its Rwandan neighbour has imposed a 60km/hour limit - and will overtake you with no visibility beyond the next curve, and we did have a few near misses with pickup trucks.

We had just finished our lunch break and left the provincial town of Kayanza en route for Gitega when something caught our attention. We were driving up a hill where a taxi had come to a halt in the middle of the road. As the lead car of our group slowed down and was preparing to overtake it, we in the second car saw the taxi reverse towards our friends. Worried at first, we saw the wheels of the cab change direction towards the road’s side, where we assumed the taxi driver was going to park. But instead of stopping, we watched horrified as the powerless taxi gained speed backwards down the hill and ran over the cliff.

Now Burundi doesn’t have high mountains, but a jump over a 200-300m cliff when no-one is wearing their seatbelt is enough to kill you. As we pulled the car over and organised ourselves to help, we were fearing the worst for the passengers’ lives. A few of us climbed down the hill with dozens of people who had immediately gathered on the accident site. Thankfully, the car had stopped 100 metres downhill, resting dangerously on a large bush on its side and all the passengers – the driver, a woman and her baby who were just coming back from a visit to the local hospital – were alive. Quickly, they were helped out of the car, walked up the hill and sat down by the side of the road. The driver was staring in front of him, with a vague expression. The woman was sobbing in complete shock – she didn’t seem to be able to tell me whether she was hurt, so I checked for bleeding or broken bones and found nothing. Her baby’s face was smeared with a strange liquid, but we learnt that it was due to the antibiotic it had been given at the hospital and that it was fine too. Miraculously none of them even had the slightest scratch and I silently praised God for sparing their lives.

Later on we learnt that the taxi had run out of petrol up the hill. After waiting for someone to donate a bit of fuel, the driver decided to let the car roll down the hill to start the engine. But with no steering or brake power, he’d quickly lost control of the vehicle. It was a scary moment and I’m so thankful that everyone got out of it safe. But as we continued our journey, I was reminded of how vulnerable life can be and how good it feels to be watched over.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Of lemons and pumpkins

Brief update on the car situation: the license plates still haven’t been found, however the pumpkin broke down less than a week after we purchased it. Apparently something to do with the fuel pump, which we must replace.

But all is good, because one of our good friends helpfully explained that in his experience of Africa, you need to go through about two or three cars until you find one that's worth keeping. Since we beat the odds with our first purchase in Sudan (our old car turned out to be brilliant), probability says we’ll now need to go through 4 to 6 lemons until we find a good one…

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Les Impôts (at the local tax office)

We’ve recently bought a car. Taking cabs has been fun for the first couple of weeks, but you quickly get tired of constantly having to agree the fare (which considering you’re Muzungus will be extortionate) before getting on it, and past 7pm it gets extremely difficult to find one at all, making social life a bit challenging.

So we found a car, in a reasonably bad shape, but we thought we’d rather invest in an old banger than witness mad motorcycle-taxis crash into our pretty new pumpkin. We bought it from a Burundian lady living nearby, whom I entertained with my conversational skills while Ginger Beer sneaked under the car to check the frame and engine. The lady then took a pencil and dutifully wrote a sales contract on a white sheet of paper, confirming that she had received the amount of XXX Burundian francs for the sale of a Geep, cross that out, Jeep to Monsieur Ginger Bear and Madame Nile Spatial. Never mind that there were children’s scribbles left by her son at the back of the page.

Once you’ve bought a new car, the next step is to proceed to a transfer of the legal documents at Les Impôts, the local tax office. After chasing the lady for a week to accompany me, we finally went together. Located at the back of a small street, between a bicycle repair shop and fruit stalls, Les Impôts is a very small office with decrepit green walls and 5 people sharing a couple of desks and 2 electronic type-writers. About 3 months ago, the Burundian government probably in need of money, requested all vehicles to get new license plates. While my lady friend disappeared in the back room to identify the old car plates kept in storage, I grabbed a chair and watched the flow of people nervously slipping into the office, armed with several papers wrapped in files of different colours. After they too were ushered into the back room, they came back and placed their file on the desk of a poor woman looking utterly bored, who was meticulously typing transfer papers VE-RY SLOW-LY with 2 fingers only, stopping every other minute to fan herself in a sigh of despair. An agitated taxi driver tried to sneak his file on top of the pile, but the wrath of the typing goddess left him shell-shocked and motionless for the next 25 minutes, during which he watched a lucky chap – who happened to know the woman – get his file promoted above his.

About 90 minutes later and with only 2 chapters left on the book I’d brought, my lady friend emerged from the back room with an air of dismay. “They can’t find the old car plates”, she announced, which didn’t surprise me as I had noticed the hill of plates left in a mess behind the woman’s desk. “But don’t worry”, she carried, “I’ve left him a little something to help him look for them. Once he calls me, probably this afternoon, we can go back and sort this out”. That’s right, I thought, the poor man just needs some encouragement to do his job. Or not, as it’s been 5 days now and the plates still haven’t been found.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

The importance of having Ernest

Like most people in Bujumbura, our house came with a cleaner. Ours is called Ernest and he’s been working here for 8+ years. The downside about inheriting someone who’s been around for ages is that they tend to be a teeny bit set in their ways of working and dear Ernest insists on kicking me out of the bedroom at 7.30am every morning in order to give the carpets a good shake. Or making fruit salad with a lot of papaya, and I don’t like papaya.

But Ernest is great. He’s certainly not very talkative and he’s always got a blood-shot eye that scares me a bit, but I’ve become rather fond of him since I’ve learnt that he can cook. His repertoire includes fish casserole, chicken curry, pizza, lasagna (see photo below) and probably more once I manage to extirpate the words out of him.

I’ve started to teach him a few recipes, like onion chutney, banana bread and chocolate brownies. Also the latest fashion in Buj is to send your help to someone’s house so they can learn from another cook, and I think I might just do that. So with a bit of luck, once I get a job there may be delicious vintage jams, freshly-made bread, samosas, chapattis and ragouts waiting for me in the evening…

Friday, January 15, 2010

Our new house

"Chose promise, chose due", therefore as promised a couple of photos of our new house and garden, with views (with some imagination required during the rainy season) over Lake Tanganika.

Some of the things I missed the most in Sudan were green spaces, and a place to sit out without feeling barbecued in broad daylight. Well, have a look at this:



The fine-looking garden is the brilliant work of Antoine, who comes everyday wearing the overalls we just bought him and insists on concocting herbs that when boiled, he swears, "will soothe your heads after a few beers". Although we will try to stay clear of the said-herbs, I cannot wait to sit on the patio and slowly sip my Pim's or G&T while looking at the city lights in the evening.
Needless to say that we are extremely happy here, yet one thing still puzzles me: I cannot figure out why on earth a giant wooden owl would sit on our patio, nor who would have put it there. Of all the figurines we could have ended up with, we had to land that monstrosity. I am considering recycling it as a door-stopper or simply leave it here, with the hope that it will fend off thieves at night.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

We have moved!

I realise it's been an awful long time since we last blogged so I will try to give you a brief update. And for those of you who haven't quite followed, and judging by the new title of our blog, yes it's true - we have left Sudan!

Our contract ended back in December after almost 2 years in Khartoum. It's been tough, very challenging, yet really fun at times mostly thanks to the great people we've met out there and whom we'll miss very much.

I will particularly miss the dry heat, dusk and sunsets over the Nile, the desert, dashing white jellabyas and colourful "tobes" (women's traditionnal dress), the genuine kindness of the Sudanese, and to some extent the Arabic language.

Below, some pictures of one of our finest moments at our leave-do party, organised in the desert with a couple of friends. We camped, barbecued sausages, played hippie songs on the guitar and cricket. I even had my arms tatooed with hennea for the occasion!


So Maa'salaama as-Sudan, but what's next? Well, we've just moved to a tiny central African country called Burundi, right next to Rwanda and the DR Congo. It is located in the Great Lakes area and Bujumbura, its capital city sits on the top end of lake Tanganika, surrounded by beautiful green hills. With ideallic temperatures of 30 degres all year round and about 80% humidity, you might call it a nice change from Sudan, and we'll try to give you our first impressions over the next couple of days...

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Why the beer won’t be flowing in Chad

In case you’ve missed our summer episode, back in June Ginger Beer was offered a job in Chad. And being “our only man in N’djamena” at that. Not that we don’t like being in Sudan any more. As a matter of fact we enjoy it very much and we have come to know lots of lovely people whom we’ll be very sad to leave when the time comes, but our time is coming to an end and we have to start thinking about what happens next.

Before applying Ginger Beer had spent a few weeks trying to sell it to me. “There’s a big river”, he said. He didn’t seem to have noticed the Nile – sorry, two Niles – in Khartoum. “It’s much greener”, he then ventured. Chad is part of the Sahel, one of the driest regions in the world. Nice try. “It’s not as hot…” Admittedly, there may have been a couple of degrees in it. But since Khartoum is over 45 today, that’s not saying much. He wasn’t gonna fool me with that one either. “People speak French.” That almost worked, until he added that there were lots of French soldiers patrolling the city dressed in tight shorts. Not tempting. “You can have a beer by the river”, he let out in a final attempt. A brave final attempt.

There was only one problem: I wasn’t allowed to go. Under no circumstances was I going to be able to stay in the country for at least the first few months, maybe more. In other words, he’d be drinking cocktails while I’d be floating in a spatial vacuum between Sudan, France and the UK.

In the end, we decided not to go to. It was hard, since it would have been a really nice opportunity for Ginger Beer. But we learnt something beautiful in the process: as we listened to each other’s hopes and fears, we tried to look beyond ourselves and trust God for what would come next and we decided to face it together.

So we’ll be flowing in the ‘Toum for a few more months, which is not bad really given that all our lovely friends are still around. And I’ve recently found tonic water again.